Poland 2010 - Day 9 & 10 - The Bieszczady

So we awoke early Thursday morning, loaded up the car and headed to the Bieszczady mountains, a mountain range that is part of the Outer East Carpathians in south-eastern Poland. Before 1940 this area was filled with thriving villages. But in 1942 the Germans exterminated the Jews of the Bieszczady Mountains. Then in the years of 1945-1947 more battles with the Ukraine Insurrectionary Army, which ended in a massacre and displacement of the Polish people and the majority of territory of the Bieszczady Mountains became uninhabited and wild.

Our journey through the miles of countryside to our destination was so enjoyable... lush green rolling hills of a rich wild nature, beautiful landscapes of homes and farms - this was an area of farmers who love their work. There is a large contigency of folks in this region that are grievious to see western influence degrade the life and quality of the Polish countryside and its food. The protection of the natural wealth and diversity of the countryside and the food security of the nation is a vital issue for Poland. I think the polish people must also have a strong love for horses as well. From Stanik with his traditional Konik horses to the men of the Bieszczady, I've never seen so many men who loved horses (who weren't gay).
And good Nick - he knows his Auntie well and her love of horses - so in his suggested itineary he made sure we had more than enough chances to enjoy these beautiful creatures. But it was at this part of the trip that I discovered Nick's love of horses - must be his polish blood. He seemed even more eager than me to get in some days of riding. He had booked us rooms at Pine Manor in the heart of Bieszczady Mountains. They offered horse riding, western style. The polish people have a fascination with anything country western; from the American Indian to cowboys. When I considered what kind of gift to bring to Kasia and Gosia, Nick indicated their love of anything country western - so along with Kris Orlowski CD's, I brought them a Taylor Swift and Brad Paisely CD... at the giving of these gifts Kasia exclaimed that I was a "Super Aunt".

We arrived late that evening, once again in the dark. Before heading to bed, over a cup of tea, Nick and I found the one book in English in the entire library - a picture book on all the different breeds of horses in the world. It was so enjoyable to look through it together. Nick is interested in getting a horse - something that he could ride as well as use as a work horse.

I had grown to like waking to the surpise of new surroundings. Once again, lush green rolling hills (but steeper than Rabka) dotted with forests - but the trees were beginning to turn lovely colors of gold and red. The lodge we stayed in was very new with at least 6 rooms. The folks who built it, Iza and Piotr, had quite their jobs and moved here from Warsaw. She spoke pretty good english but he didn't know much other than "Gallop".

That morning after breakfast at the lodge (lots of meat, cheese, bread and a small platter of tomatoes), Piotr and Iza gathered together some baskets for us and took us and another couple up the road into the forest mushroom picking. Very enjoyable picking those lovely nightshades and as you can see we had no problem filling our baskets. It was common practice at the lodge to take whatever was left over from breakfast that morning and make up sandwiches for lunch later - Iza provided paper bags to store them in. After a couple hours of great mushroom hunting, we had worked up an appetite and ate our sandwiches.

After returning, we let Piotr know we were interested in riding the horses. He had several horses that he would "let" you ride on the trails if you passed the test after taking a short lesson from him (in polish). If you passed his test, then he would "let" you ride with him and his friend, Euric who was visiting that week and was a fair rider (Euric's wife had fallen off the horse the day before).

So after saddling up, Nick was first up for the lesson. Nick was a natural! (Click to see Nick the equestrian). Once again, it could have been the polish blood. Piotr floundered in trying to find the words to give Paul his lesson so I took over and instructed Paul. Paul has ridden with me a handful of time and was looking pretty confident & comfortable.

Perhaps it was because his favorite english word was "Gallop", but he did not think Paul and Nick were ready to ride his horses. He told Nick that I could come, but that Paul and Nick would have to find something else to do with their time that afternoon. They were pissed! I didn't want to go with these men, because I had a sneaking suspicion they thought I was a good enough rider to take the wild ride they were thinking of (the one they'd missed out on yesterday because Euric's wife had fallen off?), and I was feeling too old and fragile to take any chances. But Paul and Nick didn't want me to miss out and encouraged me to go. So Piotr and Euric saddled up their horses with western saddles (the kind that are easier to stay on) and mine with an english saddle (the kind for the more experienced rider) and we began a stroll down through a muddy, slippery trail, through a glade of trees. But it wasn't long before we were out the other side of the woods and at the edge of the field... sure enough Piotr turned and voiced his one english word "Gallop". I shock my head and said "no..., I don't think so..." and started making noise about being too old for that. They weren't hearing any of it though and all of a sudden those two took off at a gallop across the field. My horse, Elforia, having a fit that she was being left behind started crow-hopping all over, and wondering if I would get thrown if she didn't get her way, I "let" her gallop after them.

It was two hours of this... walking in the slippery questionable parts of the trail, and then galloping through the fields. Although I enjoyed it most the time, I was also very relieved to find myself back in one piece by the end of the evening. Before returning, we took a detour onto the roads and ended up at the exact road-side restuarant/bar where Nick and Paul were "spending their time" - Piotr got us a round of shots - strong warm sweet tasting mead.

For dinner in the evening, we headed over the one and only restuarant up the road in Wetlina - Potrawy Vustz - four tables in the whole place and they were all full. Except for one table actually, it had a couple sitting at it with 3 empty chairs. Nick's sweet charisma and excellent english allowed us a place to sit with this couple who ended up being wonderful dinner companions. After an excellent feast with spiced wine, we went right next door to the bar/club which was packed with people even lining the stairs - all sitting there listening to Polish Jazz (click on link to listen). It was intermission and we were lucky enough to score two seats, and Euric, who was there with his wife, was nice enough to give us his seat for Nick to sit in : )