Poland 2010 - Day 11 - Bieszcady

The next morning we decided we were going to find another place we could ALL go trailing riding. So with a referral from Piotr, we headed up the road towards the border of Ukraine to a stable. Knowing it would be cold, we'd bought some gloves and hats at a small village. Costs in Poland are about 2/3 less than the same purchase in the United States. Poland's economy has stayed strong inspite of the recession, partly because they have not switched from the polish złoty to the euro.

When we arrived at the stable, we half wondered if Piotr had called ahead to tell them we were coming... we were turned away by a stable hand who had very poor people skills, saying it was too muddy to take the horses out today.

Earlier on our way to that stable, we vaguely recalled signs indicating a different stable, so we headed back toward Pine Manor, rubber-necking along looking for our next chance to ride.

We finally found it - Kulbaka; as it turned out, it was actually the stable/B&B that Nick had intended to reserve for our lodging while in the Bieszcady but it was full up. As we drove up, people were leaving and the man running the operation was just in the process of unsaddling the horses. We asked (begged) if we could do a trail ride. He generously gave in : )

Very sweet horses and a very relaxing ride. Krzystof, the owner who took us for the trail ride was easy-going and accomodating. A couple times throughout the ride he would turn sideways in the saddle and talk with Nick (in Polish).

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After our ride, we had plans to hike up to one of the ridge trails along the Bieszczady Mountains in the national park. Our hike up to the ridge was long and pleasantly exhausting. The trail wound up through a forest of mostly fir and beech trees which were on fire with their golden

autumn color.

I am realizing Nick is very competitive. He sees two young women aways ahead of us on the trail. He indicates that we need to catch up with them and pass. But they have me, the old lady with them who needs a little rest here and there - to pause and enjoy the beauty along the way.

We came out of the woods and continued a gentle climb up the gentle gold and green mountain field. The most characteristic element of this region are mountain pastures – extensive meadows located in the top parts of the mountains. They look like prairies on mountain peaks.

When we got to the top, there was several trails forking in different directions and a very old and humble hut where they sell hot drinks - we have a cup of hot chocolate.

Panoramas are visible for dozens of miles even on a cloudy day. We head out on the left fork and hike along the ridge of the mountain for a mile or so. Soon we do catch up with the two young women - Nick offers to take a picture of the two of them and we continue our hike. Nick, looking over his shoulder periodically to judge the distance he is putting between them and us : )

This area of the Bieszczady Mountains is a mere few miles from the Ukranian border, and about 70 miles as the crow flies to Lviv. We had planned to include

a trip to Lviv, Ukraine, but time would not premit us. The border crossing is said to be time consuming as they hold you for long hours and the roads from the border to Lviv no better than gigantic pitted potholed paths.

So disappointing but perhaps next time -Lviv used to be a part of Poland before WWII and an important thriving Polish cultural centre. The historical heart of Lviv with its old buildings and cobblestone roads has survived World War II and ensuing Soviet presence largely unscathed. However, within the next year there is plans to hold the Fifa Soccer Tournament in Lviv. I had hoped to visit this lovely old city before the joyous soccer masses descended.

The trip down was easier and surprisingly my knees held up alright. Nick and me had a contest to see who could pick up the most garbage on the way down. He won.

On our way back to Pine Manor, we had some dinner at the same small restaurant I'd met up with Paul and Nick on horseback the day before. Delicious local fare with local folks (and a dog).