Poland 2010 - Day 12 - Bieszczady to Wieliczka Salt Mines

That morning we packed up our bags, paid our bill (which was ridiculously reasonable) and said goodbye to Piotr and Iza. Iza sent us off with a couple extra canned jars of mushrooms from our mushroom hunting day. It was Sunday, and in parting she recommended a short side trip to a very old church that was having a special celebration on that Sunday.

Several miles up the road we turned onto an old dirt road as directed; we knew we may be on the right track as another car had turned onto the road before us. We drove a couple miles along the rutted lane and before long we started seeing cars parked; first only occasionally, but as we drove further and further they became more frequent. Being a single lane road, we decided to turn the car around and park before the possibility of more traffic coming after us. It seemed an unlikely road to find a church on, but the road was quickly filling with cars and people continuing on foot.

Soon we rounded up a slight bend and up a slope on the hill in the trees sat an old white church.
It was a small church only able to hold 30 or 40 people and it was full to the gills with 7 times the amount of people standing outside the back and side doors.

There were vendors set up to sell toys for children and food for parishioners after the mass. Soon from up the road come a large troop of men on horseback. They circle in a field just a ways from the church. We walk over with our cameras and start taking pictures. Obviously very proud of themselves and their mounts - the leader of the pack stood up on the back of his horse for us : )

And what a coincidence, there was also a woman from Lviv, Ukraine set up around the side of one of the outbuildings that was selling her own and her sister's oil paintings. We selected a couple before we headed back onto the road. Somewhat far removed to being real, I felt fortunate that I'd be taking a bit of Lviv home with me even though I never made it there.

On way back to Krakow, we stopped at Lancut to visit the castle. Impressive in a rococo kind of way : ) Nick was having none of it.

We had made plans to stop just outside of Krakow in the town of Wieliczka - the home of the salt mines, one of the wonders of Poland. Our lodging this time was a true slice of real Poland. We stayed in the home of older couple in their upstairs bedroom. And Nick got a true slice of what it's like to sleep in the same room with Paul and Nancy (who turns on her iphone app that makes white noise to drown out her husband who has sleep apnea : ).

The next morning after a great breakfast (meat and cheese and a little tomato), we headed over to the salt mines for a lick of salt.

Entering the mines involves descending 160 meters down a stairwell. Here there are an estimated 300 kilometres of shafts and tunnels, most of which were hand-hewn, for the purpose of extracting the salt. This came from an ancient sea which dried up during the early Miocene period which subsequent tectonic movements then covered and compressed to form a series of strata of pure rock salt. The salt scupltures are numerous and impressive - except, thankfully, no Elvis.

It was hard to part with Nick. I love that boy! Home is more than a place. It's being with the people you love. And everywhere we went with Nick in Poland felt a little like home. And when we parted ways on a side street off of Ulica Zwierzyniecka in Krakow, I kept looking over my shoulder for one last gaze at this good young man who was my polish newphew - citizenship or no.

Poland 2010 - Day 11 - Bieszcady

The next morning we decided we were going to find another place we could ALL go trailing riding. So with a referral from Piotr, we headed up the road towards the border of Ukraine to a stable. Knowing it would be cold, we'd bought some gloves and hats at a small village. Costs in Poland are about 2/3 less than the same purchase in the United States. Poland's economy has stayed strong inspite of the recession, partly because they have not switched from the polish złoty to the euro.

When we arrived at the stable, we half wondered if Piotr had called ahead to tell them we were coming... we were turned away by a stable hand who had very poor people skills, saying it was too muddy to take the horses out today.

Earlier on our way to that stable, we vaguely recalled signs indicating a different stable, so we headed back toward Pine Manor, rubber-necking along looking for our next chance to ride.

We finally found it - Kulbaka; as it turned out, it was actually the stable/B&B that Nick had intended to reserve for our lodging while in the Bieszcady but it was full up. As we drove up, people were leaving and the man running the operation was just in the process of unsaddling the horses. We asked (begged) if we could do a trail ride. He generously gave in : )

Very sweet horses and a very relaxing ride. Krzystof, the owner who took us for the trail ride was easy-going and accomodating. A couple times throughout the ride he would turn sideways in the saddle and talk with Nick (in Polish).

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After our ride, we had plans to hike up to one of the ridge trails along the Bieszczady Mountains in the national park. Our hike up to the ridge was long and pleasantly exhausting. The trail wound up through a forest of mostly fir and beech trees which were on fire with their golden

autumn color.

I am realizing Nick is very competitive. He sees two young women aways ahead of us on the trail. He indicates that we need to catch up with them and pass. But they have me, the old lady with them who needs a little rest here and there - to pause and enjoy the beauty along the way.

We came out of the woods and continued a gentle climb up the gentle gold and green mountain field. The most characteristic element of this region are mountain pastures – extensive meadows located in the top parts of the mountains. They look like prairies on mountain peaks.

When we got to the top, there was several trails forking in different directions and a very old and humble hut where they sell hot drinks - we have a cup of hot chocolate.

Panoramas are visible for dozens of miles even on a cloudy day. We head out on the left fork and hike along the ridge of the mountain for a mile or so. Soon we do catch up with the two young women - Nick offers to take a picture of the two of them and we continue our hike. Nick, looking over his shoulder periodically to judge the distance he is putting between them and us : )

This area of the Bieszczady Mountains is a mere few miles from the Ukranian border, and about 70 miles as the crow flies to Lviv. We had planned to include

a trip to Lviv, Ukraine, but time would not premit us. The border crossing is said to be time consuming as they hold you for long hours and the roads from the border to Lviv no better than gigantic pitted potholed paths.

So disappointing but perhaps next time -Lviv used to be a part of Poland before WWII and an important thriving Polish cultural centre. The historical heart of Lviv with its old buildings and cobblestone roads has survived World War II and ensuing Soviet presence largely unscathed. However, within the next year there is plans to hold the Fifa Soccer Tournament in Lviv. I had hoped to visit this lovely old city before the joyous soccer masses descended.

The trip down was easier and surprisingly my knees held up alright. Nick and me had a contest to see who could pick up the most garbage on the way down. He won.

On our way back to Pine Manor, we had some dinner at the same small restaurant I'd met up with Paul and Nick on horseback the day before. Delicious local fare with local folks (and a dog).

Poland 2010 - Day 9 & 10 - The Bieszczady

So we awoke early Thursday morning, loaded up the car and headed to the Bieszczady mountains, a mountain range that is part of the Outer East Carpathians in south-eastern Poland. Before 1940 this area was filled with thriving villages. But in 1942 the Germans exterminated the Jews of the Bieszczady Mountains. Then in the years of 1945-1947 more battles with the Ukraine Insurrectionary Army, which ended in a massacre and displacement of the Polish people and the majority of territory of the Bieszczady Mountains became uninhabited and wild.

Our journey through the miles of countryside to our destination was so enjoyable... lush green rolling hills of a rich wild nature, beautiful landscapes of homes and farms - this was an area of farmers who love their work. There is a large contigency of folks in this region that are grievious to see western influence degrade the life and quality of the Polish countryside and its food. The protection of the natural wealth and diversity of the countryside and the food security of the nation is a vital issue for Poland. I think the polish people must also have a strong love for horses as well. From Stanik with his traditional Konik horses to the men of the Bieszczady, I've never seen so many men who loved horses (who weren't gay).
And good Nick - he knows his Auntie well and her love of horses - so in his suggested itineary he made sure we had more than enough chances to enjoy these beautiful creatures. But it was at this part of the trip that I discovered Nick's love of horses - must be his polish blood. He seemed even more eager than me to get in some days of riding. He had booked us rooms at Pine Manor in the heart of Bieszczady Mountains. They offered horse riding, western style. The polish people have a fascination with anything country western; from the American Indian to cowboys. When I considered what kind of gift to bring to Kasia and Gosia, Nick indicated their love of anything country western - so along with Kris Orlowski CD's, I brought them a Taylor Swift and Brad Paisely CD... at the giving of these gifts Kasia exclaimed that I was a "Super Aunt".

We arrived late that evening, once again in the dark. Before heading to bed, over a cup of tea, Nick and I found the one book in English in the entire library - a picture book on all the different breeds of horses in the world. It was so enjoyable to look through it together. Nick is interested in getting a horse - something that he could ride as well as use as a work horse.

I had grown to like waking to the surpise of new surroundings. Once again, lush green rolling hills (but steeper than Rabka) dotted with forests - but the trees were beginning to turn lovely colors of gold and red. The lodge we stayed in was very new with at least 6 rooms. The folks who built it, Iza and Piotr, had quite their jobs and moved here from Warsaw. She spoke pretty good english but he didn't know much other than "Gallop".

That morning after breakfast at the lodge (lots of meat, cheese, bread and a small platter of tomatoes), Piotr and Iza gathered together some baskets for us and took us and another couple up the road into the forest mushroom picking. Very enjoyable picking those lovely nightshades and as you can see we had no problem filling our baskets. It was common practice at the lodge to take whatever was left over from breakfast that morning and make up sandwiches for lunch later - Iza provided paper bags to store them in. After a couple hours of great mushroom hunting, we had worked up an appetite and ate our sandwiches.

After returning, we let Piotr know we were interested in riding the horses. He had several horses that he would "let" you ride on the trails if you passed the test after taking a short lesson from him (in polish). If you passed his test, then he would "let" you ride with him and his friend, Euric who was visiting that week and was a fair rider (Euric's wife had fallen off the horse the day before).

So after saddling up, Nick was first up for the lesson. Nick was a natural! (Click to see Nick the equestrian). Once again, it could have been the polish blood. Piotr floundered in trying to find the words to give Paul his lesson so I took over and instructed Paul. Paul has ridden with me a handful of time and was looking pretty confident & comfortable.

Perhaps it was because his favorite english word was "Gallop", but he did not think Paul and Nick were ready to ride his horses. He told Nick that I could come, but that Paul and Nick would have to find something else to do with their time that afternoon. They were pissed! I didn't want to go with these men, because I had a sneaking suspicion they thought I was a good enough rider to take the wild ride they were thinking of (the one they'd missed out on yesterday because Euric's wife had fallen off?), and I was feeling too old and fragile to take any chances. But Paul and Nick didn't want me to miss out and encouraged me to go. So Piotr and Euric saddled up their horses with western saddles (the kind that are easier to stay on) and mine with an english saddle (the kind for the more experienced rider) and we began a stroll down through a muddy, slippery trail, through a glade of trees. But it wasn't long before we were out the other side of the woods and at the edge of the field... sure enough Piotr turned and voiced his one english word "Gallop". I shock my head and said "no..., I don't think so..." and started making noise about being too old for that. They weren't hearing any of it though and all of a sudden those two took off at a gallop across the field. My horse, Elforia, having a fit that she was being left behind started crow-hopping all over, and wondering if I would get thrown if she didn't get her way, I "let" her gallop after them.

It was two hours of this... walking in the slippery questionable parts of the trail, and then galloping through the fields. Although I enjoyed it most the time, I was also very relieved to find myself back in one piece by the end of the evening. Before returning, we took a detour onto the roads and ended up at the exact road-side restuarant/bar where Nick and Paul were "spending their time" - Piotr got us a round of shots - strong warm sweet tasting mead.

For dinner in the evening, we headed over the one and only restuarant up the road in Wetlina - Potrawy Vustz - four tables in the whole place and they were all full. Except for one table actually, it had a couple sitting at it with 3 empty chairs. Nick's sweet charisma and excellent english allowed us a place to sit with this couple who ended up being wonderful dinner companions. After an excellent feast with spiced wine, we went right next door to the bar/club which was packed with people even lining the stairs - all sitting there listening to Polish Jazz (click on link to listen). It was intermission and we were lucky enough to score two seats, and Euric, who was there with his wife, was nice enough to give us his seat for Nick to sit in : )

Poland 2010 - Day 8 - Last Day in Rabka, to Gliwice and back to Krakow

The next morning, knowing it would be our last day here, we savored every last moment. We had breakfast of which there was a very tasty dish of scrambled eggs. Then Kris gave Kasia a guitar lesson, teaching her how he goes about writing songs and some new guitar chords, with Paul adding in some great cello parts : )

Kris & Kasia - The Lesson - YouTube Video

Afterwards Kasia offered to take us back up into the forest and show how to identify the edible mushrooms. So stopping on our way to visit the half dozen or so pupples , we headed back into the woods. Basia graced us with her shy presence too – literally, she seemed beyond shy in wanting to be too much a part of the group and would often wander off into different parts of the woods from us. We had a wonderful time hunting through the woods and found ourselves further and further up the hillside of the forest in hunt of those tasty night shades. With Kasia’s keen eye and great tutoring of hunting for these hidden treasures, we were able fill up most of our baskets : )

Basia's wandering ways concerned Kasia, and she often called for her sister to come join us. Soon Basia called out that she was heading back to the house. After looking for another 1/2 hour we heard someone else calling from further down the hill toward the house. Kasia called back to signal where we were. And soon, up the trail toward us comes Stanik and Basia astride the horses with the foal trailing nimbly behind. This time I couldn't resist when offered a ride... my fearlessness of youth had come back : ) Basia gave up her place in the saddle and followed us on foot as we left the rest of the group to collect mushrooms. We looped up and around the trail and started down the hill of the forest. Soon we came to a fork in the road; the left was a pretty little "easy" trail down and the right sported a steep twisting ravine with rocks, mud and trickling water... Stanik picked the trail less likely to be traveled and the his horse whether confused or not liking the idea refused to go down. Stanik's legs were thumping emphatically against the horse and his arms were flapping up and down with the reins with no results. Finally, Basia scooted around the gelding trying not to slip on the steep muddy sides of the ravine and proceeded down the this craggy trail. Stanik's horse soon followed and mine as well. I was amazed thankful at the sturdy sure-footedness of the Konik horse/ponies!

As we came out of the woods and entered the long field before the house we met up with the rest of the group and we took turns riding the horses back to the house.

You can see here in this video the pond that Stanik made with it's varied beautiful landscaping around it - Kris is feeding the baby horse stale bread that Maria gave us to give the horses : )

After another scrumptious feast by Maria with homemade black currant wine (yum) - we packed up our bags and started our goodbyes and took our parting "shot" - a pictures of this family we'd grown to love in just a few short days. Maria gave us the two paintings by Gosia I had admired on their walls; one a oil of a vase of flowers - for me, and another of an fresh and inviting bed by an open window - for Janie who she says works so hard that she needs to remember her bed so she can rest more. I was delighted to be taking back something to Bellingham that would forever remind me of this wonderful family.

Stanik came up the stairs with several bottles of home-made currant wine for us. Such a welcome treat!

It was so hard to say goodbye to our wonderful Poland family... I truly feel like I've left a part of myself behind with them. Happiness IS waiting in Rabka, Poland.

Before heading out of Rabka, we had one last mission. We needed to find Jan Zembal... another relative on my Grandfather's side who was said to live close to the train station. We had hope that he could provide some missing information regarding land-ownership of the Zembal family that would allow Nick to get his polish citizenship. Stanik, knowing the area well, offered to go with us in his car to translate although Nick is pretty darn good with the polish language - "Tahk, tahk!" (That's polish for "Ya, ya").

When we showed up at the house we were instructed to go to the for the information from our cousin, the people knew of no Jan Zembal living recently, although they did know of one living more than a century ago (which was probably my great, great grandfather if that was the case). But they did know of someone who might be connected with the Zembal clan who lived up the hill. So with Stanik in the lead, we followed him up winding lanes, over narrow bridged creeks and along fence lines where mostly german shepherds barked out a warning not to cross into their yard... hmm, guess there's no such thing as polish sheperds. Luckily the house we were trying to find, and found, did not have a german shepherd. After waiting in the car while Nick and Stanik went to the door to inquire, Nick motioned from the door of his older home to "come on"... come to find out the very man who's house this was, was at home and we were related to him!!!! In fact, he motioned to a pile of old boards and Nick indicated that he had got them out of "Florian Zembal's" old house (Florian was my grandfather's brother). Is this serendipitous or what!! ??

In so many ways, this trip would not have been half as good without Nick. The wonderfully suggested itineary that we went with was all his ideas. Knowing our travel style, he got accomodations in places that allowed us to get the real flavor of Poland; apartments for rent, lodges and of course Maria and Stanik's. And he knew where and what was traditional polish food and drink fare. That afternoon, we started the 2 hour trek by to Gliwice where he had arranged for Kris to give a concert at the 4 Art Klub Muzyczny, Nick's personal favorite hangout in Gliwice. In grand generous Nick style he had greatly promoted Kris amoungst his friends and co-workers making up posters and with the help of his friend Sweet Awesome Ania (to the left of the stage area) who distributed the posters around town! For a Wednesday night the place was packd and Kristofer was greatly recieved getting a total of 3 encores. Once again, there was one polish lady sitting in the front by the stage who was glaring at anyone who was talking during Kris' performance : )

Late that night, after the concert and flush of Kris' fans, we proceeded back to Krakow - Kris would catch 3 hours of sleep, take a train to the airport and head back to Seattle. After catching a few winks, he'd drive to Spokane, Whitworth College for a concert with the rest of his band... Oh the life of being a rock star.

Poland 2010 - Day 7 - Rabka with the Kluska's

The morning came and with it the anticipated view of my surroundings. All around me beautiful green rolling hills dotted with little glades of forest. It gave me such a good feeling to know these very hills were the ones that my grandmother and grandfather saw when they lived here.

Arriving for breakfast at 8:00, Maria treated us to one of many a delicious feast - hot tea, cheeses, meats, and bread (very traditional)! It is their way that when you serve guests, that the family eats in the kitchen while the guests eat in the dining room. With such voracious appetites and good food, as well as we longed to be with this family, we gobbled down our food. However, it wasn't long before we realized that there was never a chance we'd starve at Maria and Stanik's. By the time we left they almost had to roll us out the door. Kasia and Basia were at school and Gosia was "sick" so she did not go back to school that late in the afternoon.

After breakfast we suited up in warm clothes and went outside to check out their wonderful little farm… They had several outbuildings which housed their tools to cultivate the garden which grew many plants - fruits, vegetables and landscaping plants which Stanik takes to market. I drooled over a vintage wagon which contained hay for their livestock - 3 goats and 3 horses which were tethered out in the fields beyond their home. Nick showed me the sleigh in which he had a wild ride in several winters back when he was visiting.

We walked up past their yard to the fields first to milk the goats - not an easy task I soon realized. In Nick's 6 years of living in Poland, Maria and Stanik have been like another family to him and he visits them at least once a year. So his skills at goat-milking were much more honed. Since I could get no milk when trying my hand, I thought to help out by getting the goat to relax more by give it a shoulder massage : )


After the milking, we headed a distance of a few fields to another pasture where Stanik had staked out their three polish bred Konik horses - one mare, her foal and the father, newly gelded. This is traditional polish breed is characterized by is dun color, small size and dorsal stripe and is considered semi-wild and descends of the Tarpans. The pasture where they graze is not fenced. Stanik tethers only the mare while the foal and gelding run free. But they stay by the mare; the foal for nursing and the male because he is the alpha to protect them. Scoobie, one of the dogs, loves to tease the horses.

Stanik (via Nick and Maria's translation) asks if I would like to ride the horses later. I am shy and hesistant. At one time in my younger days I was a fearless and capable horse woman. But experiencing the mortality of a broken foot and knees gone bad a couple years back, I've come be more cautious. Declining this generous invitation was very hard, but not necessary as I later found more courage and another chance due to Stanik's polish persistance : )

We were walking by the back yard area and I asked how they kept the grass so short… Maria said that sometimes they bring the animals down to graze on it, but then Stanik grabs a scythe which was laying up against the side of the barn and starts a rhythmic swinging across the blades of grass. He made it look so easy… Nick and Paul tried and could not get it to cut as easy. There was also an old outhouse there which was used when they were first building their home.

We admired the home that Stanik and Maria had built, the yard they had cultivated with it’s gardens, animals and pond with fish. After getting back to the house, Maria said that that morning they wanted to take us to her sister’s sister-in-law’s husband’s home. They were in the process of building a new home from logs in the traditional Polish log home fashion, with insulation between the logs known as “Wełnionka”. Having a log structure anywhere in Poland is rare… they are either very old, or the person who having it built is well-to-do. The woodshavings are twisted and bound together, inserted between the log beams as insulation. It ends up looking like beautiful beads of trim between row of logs. This labor-intensive touch of artistry was just a portion of the lovely architecture of this home. But Maria and Stanik’s home was just as beautiful to me if not more because of the caring wonderful souls that live there. Their's is a life of good simple living, not the stress and hussle we experience in the States. I want this.

When we got back we had more tea (our choice of lacing or not), and Nick offered to take us exploring in the woods beyond the fields behind their home.

But before we headed out, we say goodbye to Gosia who has been convolescencing throughout the morning and was needing to go back to her boarding school later that afternoon. I was disappointed to see her go, knowing this is the last I will see of her (until I return to Poland someday or they come to visit us ; ). She mentioned that her and Kasia are going on tour to Canada with their traditional highland group later in the year. I had hoped it would be the Vancouver area, but find out it is Toronto : (

Later that morning we went up for a walk beyond the fields into the forest with just Nick while Kristofer continued to sleep off his jet lag. Part of the way up the hill we saw the a shrine to Mary. The hills of southern Poland are expansive rolling hills dotted with forests. It gives me a peaceful feeling just looking at them, but being in the forest itself felt magical.

We saw many different types of mushrooms while we walked around, wishing we knew which ones to pick that weren’t so magic.

It started to give us a misty rain, but we didn't care : )

After a couple hours of highland hiking, we returned back to the house pleasingly worked and with a voracious polish appetite. We were treated to yet another feast (lunch) - Kotlet schabowy: traditional breaded pork cutlet, mashed potatoes and home made canned cherry juice - double yum. Maria is an excellent cook!

By now Kasia and Basia had returned from school and Kristofer was awake. We rallied Basia for a game of cards... Maria joined us as well and we played gin rummy and looked at picture books of their family when the girls were little ones. Kasia joined us later (after she finished her homework) and her and Kris jammed on their guitars.

Later that evening we set out for the town of Rabka on the edge of town (which is pretty small town anyway) to a local restaurant “Siwy Dym” (pronounced “shivy jim”). Basia was sad that she couldn’t go with us. Nick had to run back into the house for something he forgot and she was sitting by the window with her head in her hands crying. When Nick consoled her saying that he would promise a surprise for her tomorrow, she immediately looked up with dryer eyes then he’d expected and with a look of jubilation on her face.

It was a large rather rustic hall constructed artfully from logs. The women servers were dressed in traditional highland dresses. The owner of the log cabin we visited earlier in the day was there with his band (he on violin, another on stand-up bass and another on accordion). They were a traditional polish band singing the old time favorites. They were very good and enjoyable to listen to while we drank our warm beer and enjoyed cold cuts of meats, cheeses and breads. Warm beer (or it could be perceived as hot) is a traditional drink in Poland. And since it was entering the colder months, it was a welcome new experience.

Highland Band at Siwy Dym Video On YouTube

Maria had spoken with the violin player, the owner of the log cabin, to see if he would have Kristofer come up for a few songs. He said yes, so after their first set, Kris did a few songs. It was a week night, so there weren’t very many people in the restaurant… Maria was so proud of Kristofer and was quite miffed when some of the people just kept talking when Kristofer was singing : )

We made one sad mistake that night… somethings do get lost in the translation or lack of it and we didn’t know that Stanik and Maria had taken us out as “their treat”; Paul grabbed the check before they could when it came, and it seemed as if Maria was even more disappointed then. I felt very bad and so did Paul but Nick helped us patch it over and they paid for the next round of appetizers and drinks after Maria had driven home early to be with the kids.

That night Paul and me had a wonderful sleep in Gosia’s room. Maria had fresh new sheets on the bed. It was such a privilege and joy to stay at their home. Around the room hanging from the sides of book shelves, etc. were sketchings that Gosia had done. The personality of an artist is so evident in the talent of their work. They were strong and full of a gentle emotion. I think she is a talented musician as well : )